×Due to COVID-19 and the increased need for sewing machines, our service levels have suffered and we are working around the clock to catch up and provide assistance to your most frequently asked questions (FAQ). Inventory levels are also limited due to this unprecedented demand but we are making updates frequently, just as soon as new deliveries arrive.Because of the significant increase in call and email volume, wait times can be quite long. We have increased our staff to better service you and to answer your calls, emails and social media messages as quickly as possible.Thank you for your patience as we catch up.We appreciate your help in fighting this outbreak by sewing masks, gowns, and projects you'll remember for a lifetime. From our SINGER family to yours, #sewunited. The 1507WC is an eight-stitch machine that works well for beginners. If you need a machine for simple sewing projects, this machine is designed for you.With eight built-in stitches, the machine has options for basic sewing and decorative projects.The carrying handle on the machine and included canvas cover make the machine convenient for sewing class use and home storage. Ableton 9 free download full version.
Sep 29, 2013 Title: Singer 8280 Sewing Machine Service Manual And, Author: TillyStricklin, Name: Singer 8280 Sewing Machine Service Manual And, Length: 5 pages, Page. Read and download Singer Sewing Machine 8280 Instruction Manual online. Download free Singer user manuals, owners manuals, instructions, warranties.
Included AccessoriesCanvas Dust Cover, All-Purpose Foot, Zipper Foot, Buttonhole Foot, Button Sewing Foot, Screwdriver, Seam Ripper / Lint Brush, Package of Needles, Bobbins (Class 15), Seam Guide, Darning Plate, Thread Spool Caps, Power Cord, Foot Pedal, Instruction Manual. Built-In Stitches (8)Choose from a variety of stitches for basic sewing, decorative sewing, and more Four-Step Buttonhole (+)Buttonholes are sewn in four easy steps, clearly displayed on the Stitch Selector Dial.
Front Loading Bobbin (+)Darning Plate (+)Place the darning plate into position over the machine's feed teeth, which prevents the feed teeth from coming in contact with the fabric. Use this for free-motion sewing like stipple quilting, monograms and even for sewing on buttons. Easy Stitch Selection Dial (+)Built-in stitches are displayed on the Stitch Selector Dial. Simply turn the dial to select the stitch you want to sew. Adjustable Stitch Length (+)Customize the appearance of a stitch by increasing or decreasing the distance between stitches. Use this function for various stitch techniques like applique, basting and more.
Adjustable Stitch Width (5mm)The size of the stitch from left to right is adjustable, to make the stitch sew narrower or wider as desired. Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure (+)When sewing very lightweight or heavyweight fabrics, it may at times be necessary to decrease or increase the presser foot pressure to help the machine feed the fabric through the machine. Reverse (Lever)Sew stitches in reverse, usually done to secure a seam at the beginning and end to prevent unraveling.
Huge numbers of sewing machines have been manufactured over the years. The older vintage machines are virtually indestructible, indeed one highly skilled and experienced seamstress told me that she still uses a 1929 treadle machine as her daily workhorse. Newer machines, especially the very cheap ones, have many more plastic parts and a much shorter life. Nevertheless, the life and effectiveness of any machine can be extended with simple maintenance, and my aim here is to show you how.For demonstration purposes in this Instructable I will use a vintage machine probably dating from the 1950's or 60's because it's easier to show the mechanism, however, all machines work in the same way. If you can get hold of such a machine, so long as it's complete, you should be able to keep it running indefinitely and certainly much longer than a modern machine.You can find an expanded version of this Instructable, including a description of sewing machine principles and common problems and their solutions in the page on the Restart Project.Many spare parts, particularly for older machines, are readily available on eBay and probably elsewhere. The first thing to do is to remove all dust and fluff, wherever you can find it.
Between the feed dogs is a favourite place for it to collect. Remove the needle, the foot and the needle plate to facilitate cleaning. The needle plate is a plate beneath the foot with cut-outs through which the feed dogs protrude, generally secured by one or two screws. Where the dust and fluff has become matted you can pick it out with a pin or a needle, otherwise use a brush and/or a vacuum cleaner crevice tool. You can use a can of compressed air or simply blow but there is a risk you might just blow the fluff further into the mechanism.
Look out for any pieces of broken needle which might have come to rest here and could jam the mechanism.Also, check for and remove any dust, fluff or pieces of broken thread where the thread passes between the discs of the upper tension adjuster, and at any other points in the threading path of the upper thread where it might have collected. Good quality thread sheds less fluff than cheaper brands and so is advised.Replace the foot. Check the needle before refitting it.
Run it between your fingers from the shank down to the tip. Any roughness can be carefully removed with fine emery, but it is better replaced if it has seen more than 6 - 8 hours' service. Always replace a bent needle as it will cause nothing but trouble. In a vintage machine the bobbin is often accessed by sliding away a plate next to the needle plate, as shown in the first photo.
In modern front loading machines a very similar mechanism is accessed from the front of the machine. In modern top loading machines the bobbin is dropped horizontally into a mechanism in front of the needle plate.Many very old (like pre-war) machines have a completely different bobbin fitting into a bullet-shaped shuttle which is thrown through a loop in the upper thread to make each stitch.On a vintage machine as shown, the mechanism is hinged on a wooden base and can be lowered into a horizontal position and rested on a pile of fat books for easy access to the underneath. The remaining photos were taken with it in this position.Remove the bobbin and bobbin case and remove the bobbin from its case. Blow out any dust.The bobbin case fits into a bobbin case holder which rotates as the machine operates.
It should be easily removed, for example by releasing a pair of clips on a retaining ring.The bobbin case holder has a sharp point known as the hook (shown in the last photo), designed to catch the upper thread so as to engage it with the lower thread and make a stitch. Run your finger over this and if it feels rough (probably due to needle strikes) then smooth off any burrs with fine emery. Take care to reassemble it correctly.In the case of a second hand machine, make sure that all the bobbins that came with it (and any extra ones that you buy) are of the right sort. There are several types, superficially similar, and the wrong ones will cause problems if they work at all. This is easy on a vintage machine. The bottom mechanism is accessed by tipping it on its side as in the previous step, and the top mechanism can generally be accessed by removing a couple of screws retaining the top cover.On a modern plastic machine you will generally have to remove a number of screws, and you may then have to release a series of clips holding 2 halves of the plastic case together.
Probe the crack between them with a thin spatula or blunt scalpel or thin knife in order to determine where the clips are. Take care not to insert it too far or to damage the plastic. Angling the spatula so as to lift one side of the case whilst depressing the other should release a nearby clip.
Insert an old credit card, plastic prying tool, guitar plectrum or anything similar in the gap so created to prevent the clip re-engaging while you probe for the next one. Stubborn refusal of the case to come apart often means there's one more screw, possibly hidden under a label or a rubber foot.Having gained access to the top and bottom mechanisms, gently turn the hand wheel to see which bits move. Anything that moves needs oiling on its bearings, joints or sliding surfaces, except for nylon gears, wheels or cams - these are generally greased for life.Use only sewing machine oil.
Never use bicycle oil, or motor oil, or grease, or olive oil, or Vaseline, or anything else. None of these are sewing machine friendly.Apply no more than a drop of oil to each bearing or connection. Wipe away any excess before it has a chance to drip.In the case of a vintage machine that has been out of use for a long time, the mechanism may be very stiff or have seized up completely.
Bias peak studio. FURTHER, BIAS DOES NOT WARRANT, GUARANTEE, OF MAKE ANY REPRESENTATIONS REGARDING THE USE OR THE RESULTS OF THE USE OF THE SOFTWARE OR DOCUMENTATION IN TERMS OF CORRECTNESS, OR OTHERWISE. YOU AGREE TO ASSUME THE ENTIRE COST OF ALL NECESSARY SERVICING, REPAIR, OR CORRECTION.BIAS warrants to the original LICENSEE that the media upon which the SOFTWARE is recorded and the BIAS Key (USB dongle), if applicable, are free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and service for a period of ninety (90) days from the date of delivery as evidenced by a copy of your receipt. Further, BIAS hereby limits the duration of any implied warranty(ies) on the media to the respective periods stated above. THE ENTIRE RISK AS TO THE RESULTS AND PERFORMANCE OF THE SOFTWARE AS ASSUMED BUY YOU, AND NOT BIAS OR ITS DEALERS, DISTRIBUTORS, AGENTS, OR EMPLOYEES.
Oil it thoroughly (but wiping away any excess) and leave it for a while for the oil to penetrate. Repeat as necessary until it operates smoothly. It's important to check the bobbin tension as you will get poor results and possibly broken or snagging thread if it's wrong. Fit a bobbin of thread to the bobbin case and thread it under the tension spring. Suspend it by the thread.
The tension is correct if it is just sufficient to support the weight of the bobbin and case. Shaking it gently should unwind just a little more thread. Adjust with the screw in the tension spring. If you have any difficulty, make sure there isn't any fluff or pieces of broken thread under the tension spring. Examine the bobbin winder. This often engages with the hand wheel by means of a wheel with a rubber tyre.
If the tyre is worn or cracked or perished, replace it. Spares are generally easy to obtain.Try winding a bobbin. The thread tension should be sufficient to produce a neat and tight (but not excessively tight) pile. Badly wound bobbins can cause trouble.(I don't have any pictures of a bobbin winder as it's missing on my machine. I wind my bobbins on a piece of dowel fitted to the chuck of an electric drill.). Before touching any of the electrics, double check that your machine isn't still plugged in.Smooth operation of the foot pedal is essential otherwise it will be very hard to sew successfully. It may simply need lubricating.
On older machines it will contain a rheostat, which is a variable resistance wired in series with the motor. Newer machines will more likely have an electronic speed control similar to a dimmer switch.You will need to examine the foot pedal to determine how to disassemble it. Do not use sewing machine oil, but rather any light lubricating oil, or grease on sliding parts, and keep oil and grease away from all electrical contacts.Also, check the motor belt tension.
You should be able to adjust it by loosening the screws or nuts on its bracket. If the motor is sparking excessively or doesn't appear to be working well, check out the page on the Restart Project wiki. Replacing the brushes or cleaning the commutator might be necessary. If the motor bearings seem to need lubrication you should use grease specially intended for electric motors, preferably as recommended by the manufacturer.A replacement bulb is easily fitted on older machines but may be wired-in and not so easily changed on newer ones. Consider replacing a filament bulb with a more modern LED equivalent, which will run much cooler. However, if the bulb needs to shine mainly downwards but the LEDs in a LED bulb appear to face sideways it may be less suitable.
Take the old one with you to make sure you get a new one with the same sort of base. If you are getting unexplained broken threads, it could be that the timing needs adjustment. This is beyond what can be covered in an Instructable at this level and may be best left to a professional with the appropriate service manual, but it's not too difficult to see whether this is indeed the problem.You need to be able to see the needle and the hook at the point where the hook catches the top thread. In the photo, I've turned my machine on its side so I can see the underneath, and I've removed the bobbin and and the plate which holds the bobbin carrier in place. I had to hold it to stop it dropping out as I turned the handwheel.With the needle threaded, turn the handwheel until the hook passes the needle, whilst holding the free end of the thread taught, but without pulling on it. The photo shows the thread having been securely caught after the handwheel has been turned a little further.The tip of the hook should pass the needle just after it has reached its lowest point.
Typically, the needle should have risen 3/16 of an inch (1/10 of an inch, or 2.5mm). At this point, the rising needle causes the thread to go slack and form a loop which is caught by the hook.Turning the handwheel still further, you should see the thread drawn around the bobbin (if you have it in place) so as to make a stitch.If having come this far you've got the bug, and if the alternative is to scrap the machine, by all means search online for your make and model of machine with the key words 'timing adjustment' appended, and you should at least be able to see what is involved in adjusting the timing. You need to ensure both that the lowest point of the needle brings the eye to the right level beneath the hook, and also that the hook passes the needle after it has risen by the prescribed amount. These settings and how to adjust them should be given in the machine's service manual, if you can get hold of it.
I'm sorry, I can't help you there. A quick Google search indicates that Gritzner is a very long established firm, probably German, and from your picture, very heavy and solidly made, predating the cheap ones with plastic parts, and so well worth servicing.
The mechanism is likely to be similar to mine (as shown in the Instructable) so servicing shoud be very similar. The lower bobbin might be different though.
The main thing you need to work out is how to thread it, and you should be able to find plenty of generic instructions on the Internet for similar vintage machines. In short, a heavy session with Google might be required which should give you usable generic instructions if not the ones for your precise model. How did you do with this machine?
(approximate age, make and model information are always helpful:-) The first thing to do is check the strength of your thread, if a firm, steady pull breaks the thread easily, try a different, stronger thread and see if that helps. Next, make sure that the machine is threaded properly, and that the thread is pulled into the tension discs all the way. (pull gently on both sides of the thread until you feel it go it).
Improper threading is the most common reason for thread breakage. If the machine is very old, it may take a different size needle than modern machines do. See the manual, or online references to your particular machine for confirmation. If it worked fine earlier, and is having trouble now with the same size needles, it may be something else. Make sure that the thread is going through the tension spring properly. When the machine is running, the thread should be pulling against the spring.
If you're not sure, you can probably find the threading diagram and manual online if you don't have a paper manual. Are you using a sharp needle? They do wear out. If there is a burr on the end of the needle, it's time to replace it. If you hear a thunking sound when the needle hits the fabric, that's a telltale sign that the needle is dull. If the eye of the needle has a sharp edge, it can also break the thread, but that's less likely than the other potential causes.
Is the bobbin area clear of debris and any broken needle ends? Try removing, cleaning and lubricating (lightly!) the bobbin race. There are tiny slots cut in the race that often fill with lint and should be clean. You need to tackle this logically. It could be a problem with the foot pedal, or with the motor, or the sewing machine mechanism.
First of all, I take it the humming noise comes from the sewing machine, not the foot pedal. Does it change in intensity or pitch as you progressivly press the foot pedal? That wolud tend to absolve the foot pedal, but not completely, so don't rule it out. Can you turn the machine mechanism freely by hand by turning the wheel on the end? If you can't, or only with difficulty, then it would indicate a mechanical jam. If you can turn it freely but it doesn't turn the mechanism, and the humming sound is like the motor running, and running faster as you press the pedal harder then it's something very simple: there may be a clutch mechanism to disengage the motor from the sewing mechanism while winding spools. The instruction manual should tell you how to reengage it.
It could be a problem with the motor itself or the belt. Unlike my machine (and many older ones), from what I can make out the motor is totally enclosed in the outer shell of the sewing machine. You'll need to work out how to expose it. Check the drive belt s ok and isn't slipping - it should be tight but not too tight. Take a look at the page in the Restart Wiki which gives the principles of operation and some indications of how to fix common faults. Not quite sure what this metal plate is. Is it part of the bobbin case, or the plate the foot presses down on?
Could be that you haven't reassembled it quite right, or you have the needle incorrectly fitted. Or you might have put the timing out. Try looking at a selection of YouTube videos about threading and adjusting the timing and you may be able to see what's wrong. If not, post a photo of it as the needle is on the point of striking the plate, and it may be clearer. A picture is worth 1,000 words! Hi, thanks for the great instruction!
Very happy to stumble upon it, since I just bought the exact same machine as shown above (except mine is called Combi and more roundish, but the rest the same). Do you have any idea what the brand is? Because I couldn't find anything on google. And that might help with finding an instruction manual on it. I'm currently servicing it and with your instructions do the rest as well. Things are going better (it was sewing very slowly on high speed) and after cleaning the lower bits it's running already much faster and smoother. And on top of the motor casing there was a plastic screw with a spring in it.
Do you have an idea if tightening this might have amped up the motor or something? I'm sorry, I've only just seen your question. No, I'm afraid I don't know what brand it is and I've never found anything online about my specific machine either.
Mine was rebranded by a sewing machine shop in the small town where I live.Is there a second plastic screw with a spring directly opposite it on the other side of the motor, both of them at the same end of the motor as the wires? These hold the carbon brushes in place which carry the electric current to the rotor. They're not adjustments and should simply be tightened sufficiently not to work loose. The brushes eventually wear down and can be replaced, if you can find the exact same sort. Take a look at he page on the Restart Wiki.